Most people visit in the morning for breakfast or to pick up food for lunch. “Everything’s gone!” Palisa says, exasperated, but I still count more than 15 stainless steel trays and pots filled with food. No one is going hungry today. The second-generation owner of the 40-plus-year-old business apologises profusely in Thai about his diminished selection as we pull two tables together. Out comes moo paloo, a braised dish of spongy tofu, hard-boiled eggs and pork belly, its fat rendered and soft, all bobbing in umber five-spice broth. Kai loug kheuh, or son-in-law eggs, yield gelatinous yolks. Moussey hor mok pla, fish curry steamed in a banana leaf cup with coconut milk, is an airy, oceanic pudding. The clear and sour tom yum pla too has green chilli-studded broth and a whole mackerel spilling over the sides of the bowl.