We’re stuffed, but skipping dessert would be relinquishing an experience. The sweets are distinctly Teochew and served with strong, bitter tea that acts as a digestive. Orh nee (sweet taro paste) is scattered with candied ginko nuts, lotus seeds and red dates. Traditional sugared yam sticks are starchy little blocks coated in sugar, eaten with tiny, colourful snail forks with plastic handles.
At the end of our meal, the bill is scrawled on a single piece of paper ripped from a notepad – although some of our party speak and read Thai, the staff here write in Chinese. It’s an even 5,000 BHT, which is AUD $40 per head for a whole suckling pig, beers, an assortment of shared dishes, sides and dessert. Prep begins for the next day’s service before we depart. As I ogle hefty cubes of deep-fried tofu drying on a table covered in butcher’s paper, I hope our taste for tradition never wavers, and Tang Jai Yoo never changes.
Dishes 300 BHT to 600+ BHT (suckling pig 2000 BHT)
85-87 Soi Yaowaphanit, off Thanon Yaowarat, Samphanthawong, Bangkok