Milos Otherworldly beaches, fishing villages + rustic cuisine

Notes from the road

I’m my best self on Milos, the Greek island in the Cyclades that boasts the most beaches.

I’m happy, relaxed, tanned – a joy to be around, if I do say so myself. It might have something to do with my diet there; I lived on olive oil, wine, octopus, watermelon pies and gyros.

Milos is the ultimate holiday destination for someone like me, who desires a place where you can feel like you’re not missing out on anything while simultaneously discovering its secrets.

The small island is renowned for the Venus de Milo. The statue is in the Louvre in Paris, but you’ll forget all about it after spending your days beach hopping, interspersed by some of the best food in Greece.

The villages here are so picturesque I couldn’t decide where to stay. I ended up splitting the trip between a windmill with a view and a traditional fisherman’s house that opened to the sea; both converted into modest but beautiful accommodation. Plenty of people make the mistake of staying in Adamantas, the harbour town where the ferry comes in. There’s nothing wrong with it per se, but it’s less picturesque and more crowded. Skip it and head for the hills.

After less than a week cruising around the island on a four-wheeler exploring beaches with volcanic moonscapes and hot springs, I felt like I’d been on Milos for a month, and still didn’t want to leave. Mid-September was the perfect time to visit – I couldn’t understand why there weren’t more people.

Actually, let’s keep it that way.

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