Sifnos The tiny, relaxed Greek Island for food lovers

Notes from the road

Please don’t visit Sifnos.

You won’t find people partying at this tiny Greek island in the Cyclades that you can only reach by ferry. It’s super low-key. There’s not much to do beyond chilling out and eating seafood. I don’t think it’s really for you. And I want to keep it all to myself.

Sifnos is the Greek island of my dreams, and I don’t want it to ever change. On this slice of paradise in the Aegean Sea, there are more churches than there are days of the year. They’re wedged in corners, crown hills and jut out from the land on rocks. The most iconic is the Church of Seven Martyrs in Kastro.

Meals here look out to hills and olive groves, but usually the ocean, and there always seems to be a table in the sand set just for you. The food is exquisite in its freshness, homeliness and simplicity, and much of it cooked in the island’s famous pottery.

If you must go, hire a four-wheeler or motorbike to explore every whitewashed village, each more breathtaking as the last. Take every road, turn down every path; you never know when it might lead to a tiny bakery or pristine cove. Fall into a daily routine. Sleep in. Swim nude. Watch the sunset. Eat until you physically can’t take another mouthful. And then repeat.

Plan for more time on Sifnos than you think you need, because if you’re anything like me, you’ll never want to leave.

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